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Food & Drink

Carte Blanche, Hackney Central, restaurant review: a meal of two halves

By Andrew Barnes | Monday 30 July 2018 at 16:52

Our reviewer was wowed by the sides and curios on offer at this new Mare Street restaurant – but the chicken and caviar was a bridge too far

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‘Deities, not dinner’: Hackney and a plant-based past

By Hackney Citizen | Friday 6 July 2018 at 11:44
Joris Hoefnagel’s illumination of a caterpillar, from Mira calligraphiae monumenta (c. 1561)

Our resident food historian Gillian Riley points out that the vivid, varied vegan food we can now enjoy around the borough is rooted in traditions from hundreds of years ago

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Picnicking on petals: the history of edible flowers in Hackney

By Hackney Citizen | Thursday 31 May 2018 at 12:29
Abraham Mignon's Bouquet with cat and mousetrap (c. 1670). Image: Wikimedia Commons

“The time has come to brighten up our food with cheerful blossoms,” says our resident food historian Gillian Riley, who this month looks into Hackney’s role in the development of consumable blooms…

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‘The Empire was a commonwealth of recipes…Britain was fortunate in having access to many of them’

By Hackney Citizen | Friday 18 May 2018 at 14:24
Detail from Adriaen Coorte’s Strawberries Mauritshuis (1696). Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

With Windrush in mind, our resident food historian considers the folly, from a culinary angle and otherwise, of the idea of vital ingredients ‘going back where they came from’…

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Pamela, Dalston, restaurant review: Asian-inspired vegan menu with no Ayres and graces

By Andrew Barnes | Wednesday 9 May 2018 at 15:16
Slate grey and sumptuous: the peanut and sesame ice cream at Pamela

The Kingsland Road bar that honours all the world’s Pams has seen a selection of famous London pop-ups pass through their kitchen. Now, they’ve set out their own stall

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Goose Island Brewery in hunt for local beer talent as new Shoreditch brewpub given summer opening date

By Hackney Citizen | Wednesday 18 April 2018 at 14:38
Goose chase: the Chicago firm's new brewpub will open its doors in Shoreditch in late summer this year

The Chicago-based sud-slingers – who produce Barack Obama’s favourite pint – have some perks in store for their new brewmaster, who’ll work at their first East London haunt

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Open Geffrye: Museum of the Home pauses closure for Chelsea Fringe and cheese events

By Andrew Barnes | Thursday 12 April 2018 at 15:09
Garden variety: events of both a horticultural and gastronomical nature will be held at the immaculate Geffrye gardens in May. Photograph: Geffrye Museum

While the museum itself remains closed, Chelsea Fringe at the Geffrye and The London Cheese Project both touch down in the front gardens next month

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Where have you bean? Gillian Riley with more on legumes, seeds and all manner of other pulchritudinous pods

By Hackney Citizen | Thursday 5 April 2018 at 22:45
Still life of fruit, vegetables and roses (Natura morta di frutta, ortaggi e rose) by Vincenzo Campi

Our beloved food historian hits us with an update of last month’s broad (bean) overview, featuring some localised info for Hackney citizens

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Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, food review: London Fields cinema gets a taste of West Africa

By Andrew Barnes | Thursday 5 April 2018 at 18:54
"A platter kinda thing going on": some of the food on offer at Zoe's Ghana Kitchen at the Institute of Light

The Institute of Light on Helmsley Place has a new pop-up that offers “traditional Ghanaian recipes remixed for the modern kitchen”

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Shep’s, Dalston, restaurant review: Kingsland Road mavericks of Korean cuisine deliver exquisite Seoul food

By Andrew Barnes | Tuesday 27 March 2018 at 15:34
Shepherd's delight: the pork donkkaseu sandwich and the XO noodles at Shep's. Photographs: Jade King

Our reviewer was entranced by pretty much everything this new addition to Dalston had to offer – the food, weird and wonderful drinks pairings, even the music

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Homerton International Festival of Beer & Bar Snacks coming to The Adam & Eve

By Hackney Citizen | Tuesday 20 March 2018 at 10:35
Homerton International Festival of Beer and Bar Snacks coming to The Adam & Eve

Smoking Goat will be on the BBQ, Nadine Shah and Anna Prior of Metronomy on the decks and, of course, there’ll be snacks galore over this Easter weekend at the Homerton pub

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Beans, pulses, nuts, peas and seeds: it’s the little things

By Hackney Citizen | Thursday 8 March 2018 at 18:57
'Mature': detail from Giovanna Garzoni’s Plate of Peas (1651-62). All images: Wikimedia Commons

Our resident food historian takes a historical view of the newly ‘rehabilitated’ ingredients. Whether scrubbed, peeled or dried, these versatile morsels are more than meets the eye

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Gul & Sepoy, Whitechapel, restaurant review: Indian small plates with some big ideas

By Andrew Barnes | Tuesday 6 March 2018 at 16:52
Saucy: the yam and paneer kofta chaat at Gul & Sepoy. Photographs: Andrew Barnes

The team behind Spitalfields’ Gunpowder have diverged from more standard Indian culinary paths, to bring their sometimes frustrating but ultimately rewarding dishes to East London

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Food to a-door: Chats Palace to host supper club and market to raise money for new entrance

By Andrew Barnes | Wednesday 21 February 2018 at 14:26
Supper hero: following the food market, David Bez will whip up a feast. Photograph: Jørn Tomter

The former Homerton Library has been a venue and creative hub since 1976 but the frontage has barely changed in 100 years – find out how you can help through fun and feasting

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Victory Mansion/TA-KO, Stoke Newington, pub/restaurant review: fusion goes down well with cocktails

By Andrew Barnes | Thursday 15 February 2018 at 18:21
Corny: the charred cob was a highlight of the sides. Photograph: Jade King

The relaxed, shack-like cocktail bar is celebrating two years in N16 with a new Asian-cum-Mexican menu of tacos and other small plates

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Up the Junction: Historic Pembury Tavern snapped up by Five Points

By Andrew Barnes | Friday 9 February 2018 at 12:10
Sold: The Pembury Tavern will be a new home for Five Points drinkers

The Hackney brewery, located just 100 yards from the Pembury, will put the Victorian public house to use as a taproom

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The Spread Eagle, Homerton, pub/restaurant review: spread your (vegan chicken) wings

By Andrew Barnes | Friday 2 February 2018 at 14:59
Taco trio: the Tofish is front-and-centre in this picture and in our reviewer’s affections. Photograph: Jade King

In search of a range of opinions, our reviewer brought his vegan girlfriend and devoutly carnivorous parents to this hot new vegan pub and Mexican kitchen

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The Brook, Hackney Central, restaurant review: fresh and fun vegan food

By Hackney Citizen | Wednesday 31 January 2018 at 11:03
Tapas style: The Brook does a great line in fried vegan goodies to share. Photograph: The Brook

The vegan-serious, the vegan-curious and incorrigible carnivores alike will find something tasty to tuck into at this quirky restaurant and cocktail bar

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Razor glass to The Cock Tavern and Clapton Craft: Hackney dominates Beard Friendly drinking awards

By Andrew Barnes | Monday 15 January 2018 at 14:14
Beards and beers: The Cock Tavern "bristles with beard friendliness"

In the same weekend that brewing returned to The Cock, the comfortingly traditional Hackney Central pub and nearby bottle shop both won in a hirsute landslide

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Food year resolutions: Gillian Riley on having a spicy start to your New Year

By Hackney Citizen | Tuesday 9 January 2018 at 13:22
All things nice: detail from Paolo Antonio Barbieri’s The Spice Shop (1637). Image: Wikimedia Commons

The food historian and writer tips some favourite flavourings, and looks back at some of last year’s food highlights in Hackney

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