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Posts by Gabriel Wilding

Esti, Shoreditch, food review: ‘Like a steaming hot bath on a cold day’

By Gabriel Wilding | Thursday 20 April 2023 at 12:52

Kostas Vais’s residency at TT Liquor is ‘utterly lovely’

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Edit, Mare Street, food review: ‘A stylish step in the right direction’

By Gabriel Wilding | Friday 10 March 2023 at 13:10

Elly Ward’s commendable new venture is ‘vegan, hyper-seasonal, reused, recycled, and local’ – it just needs a few minor corrections to really shine

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Deep Cuts London, Mare Street, review: ‘An infinitely pretty space to get classily trollied on aperitivos’

By Gabriel Wilding | Monday 30 January 2023 at 12:16
Drink in a glass

‘Bringing obscure spirits and vermouth to the forefront of the operation, this bar is a lively addition’

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A Streetcar Named Desire, The Almeida, stage review: ‘little mistakes puncture a layered tapestry’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 25 January 2023 at 11:57
A Streetcar Named Desire. Front: Paul Mescal and Anjana Vasan.

Shouts, snatches of song, and sudden clashes of cymbals keep everyone on edge

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Lucy McCormick: Lucy & Friends: ‘Awkward, unhinged and unimaginably good’ theatre review

By Gabriel Wilding | Friday 30 December 2022 at 19:43
Lucy McCormick

‘A disarming ability to pull something charming out of total chaos’

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Oranj: ‘One to watch’ – natural wine bar review

By Gabriel Wilding | Friday 30 December 2022 at 15:55
Oranj natural wine bar

A new natural wine bar in Shoreditch shines where it should, but needs ‘some time to mature’

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Cette Maison, film review: ‘Tragic tale full of heart and beauty’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 15 November 2022 at 14:48

Miryam Charles’s feature-length debut is a ‘wistful and experimental creature’

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My Neighbour Totoro, Barbican, stage review: ‘A germinating, blossoming, unfurling delight’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 8 November 2022 at 13:47

The stage version of Studio Ghibli’s famous animated film is ‘glorious’

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Temper Shoreditch, food review: ‘Dark, deep and dangerous’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 8 November 2022 at 11:06

The barbecue chain’s new branch is a ‘palace to paleo god Carnivora’

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Triangle of Sadness, film review: ‘Searing dissection of wealth’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 25 October 2022 at 11:42

Ruben Östlund’s black comedy is a ‘gargantuan success with a knock-out cast’

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The Cherry Orchard, The Yard Theatre, stage review: ‘Space drama that never quite gets into orbit’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 27 September 2022 at 17:12

Vinay Patel’s reimagining of the Chekhov classic is ‘weighed down by its own ambition’

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Three Crowns, Stoke Newington, food review: ‘Elevated pub grub with flamboyant little details’

By Gabriel Wilding | Friday 16 September 2022 at 11:42

Chef Ousmane Gaye and his team lift a classic afternoon at the boozer to new heights

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Both Sides of the Blade, film review: ‘A world of small rooms and bottled emotions’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 13 September 2022 at 12:48

Claire Denis’s romantic drama is an ‘interesting addition to the genre, but not a game-changer’

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Funny Pages, film review: ‘Oddball characters, single-minded goals and bitingly funny one-liners’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 7 September 2022 at 13:57

Squid and the Whale actor Owen Kline’s directorial debut is ‘impressive’

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Flat Earth Pizza, Cambridge Heath, food review: ‘A temple of careful, conscious and creative eating’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 31 August 2022 at 14:45

The restaurant makes a triumphant return to permanent digs with some ‘fresh magic’

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Seoul in a Bottle, Kraft Dalston, food review: ‘Stuck in the middle and confused’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 17 August 2022 at 12:28

Delays and awkward stand-offs put paid to an evening that began with promise

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South Pacific, Chichester Festival Theatre at Sadler’s Wells, stage review: ‘Come and revel in the power of love’

By Gabriel Wilding | Friday 12 August 2022 at 10:40

Daniel Evans’s ‘thoughtful’ adaptation of the Rodgers and Hammerstein classic brings it elegantly into the 21st century

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Patriots, Almeida, stage review: ‘A must-see for anyone worried about Europe’s future’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 20 July 2022 at 09:56

Peter Morgan’s masterpiece ‘deconstructs what patriotism means to Russians’

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Supa Ya Ramen, Kingsland Road, food review: ‘Mouth-slurping goodness’

By Gabriel Wilding | Wednesday 8 June 2022 at 15:27

Luke Findlay’s permanent venue is a ‘winner’

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Noci, Islington Green, food review: ‘Bubbling atmosphere but a lack of Italian flair’

By Gabriel Wilding | Tuesday 24 May 2022 at 13:33

There’s an impressive buzz around Louis Korovilas’s new venture, but it’s missing some individuality

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