2 Fingers @ Canvas Cafe, Spitalfields, restaurant review

The Canvas Cafe counter, resplendent with 2 Fingers banner.

Recently I was suckered in by a Buzzfeed list. The US President-Elect’s favourite “failing pile of garbage” ran a piece titled “26 British Food Quirks That Brits Don’t Realise Are Weird”. Ever-keen not to appear weird, I dutifully clicked. Entry number 18, however, almost made me choke on my scotch egg. How could anyone think “putting fish fingers in a sandwich” is weird?

The combo of breaded cod, pliant white bread, and a choice of whichever Proper British sauce takes your fancy (or tartare, if you’re one of those Remoaning continental types) has been a comforting staple for an age. It’s such a classic that The Naked Chef himself has Oliver-splained it for the benefit of those without his expertise. But should it be served in a restaurant?

With memories of overpriced fish sangers in dingy pubs – as well as thoughts of the grinning Cereal Cafe beardos flogging me an extended youth – bouncing around my brain, I was ready to be cynical as I took my seat in the Canvas Cafe, the temporary home of 2 Fingers just off-of Brick Lane. I racked my brains for the perfect portmanteau of ‘gentrification’ and ‘infantilisation’, perhaps gentrinfantilisation?

Scribbled upon: The walls of the Canvas Cafe.

Canvas is London’s first “Happy Cafe”, an idea that you won’t be surprised to hear originated in Brighton. This involves a commitment to “happiness and wellbeing”, plentiful community schemes and creative events, and scribbled upon walls (see above.) There’s even an on-site Museum of Happiness. To me on this cold night, the fact that this idea translates to friendly staff, a bright, knockabout feel and a very nice cup of coffee is enough to justify it. Vegan cakes and “freakshakes” are among the other in-house offerings.

My friend and I decided to split some halloumi and grilled courgette, served with a little light salsa to cut through the meatiness. This goes for £5, as does 70s perennial the Prawn Cocktail (other accompaniments stretch from £2.50 to £8.) On the topic of prices: the 2 Fingers website lists the “Old Skool” – nakedly admitting its ingredients are ‘Birds Eye™ Fish Fingers on white tin loaf & Heinz Tomato Ketchup’. Aha! Here’s my opportunity to gripe – what crazy Shoreditch-level wonga is this going for – £9? £10?  I scroll down the menu – ah, £3.50 isn’t bad actually, and for an extra £1, one can sample half of a “Po$h” sandwich with their half a classic. Maybe I wouldn’t be able to generate my scathing think-piece after all.

Vietnamese: the Bahn Mi 2.

My pal’s Vietnamese-inspired “Bahn Mi 2” looked an absolute treat, artfully topped with linguini-thin strings of kimchi, coriander, and sumptuous hunks of red chilli. With a bite other little treats are revealed, carrot and daikon radish. I was worried that the fish fingers would taste crowbarred in, like the radical fusion cooking of a stoner student. However fish fingers are quite a neutral flavour really, and they sit inside the warm baguette imparting a warm hint of the sea. It’s really something – a top-class Bahn Mi of any stripe, fingers or not.

I went with the “Po$h” fish-finger sandwich, as unfortunately the Soft Shell Crab Burger was a victim of its own popularity that evening – come well before the closing time of 6pm if you want to get your hands on that one. Mine was a choice unregretted though, as this is a divine sandwich. The choice of panko breadcrumbs over the traditional sort adds to the delicate, almost melty mouthful of flaky cod loin. The bloomer bread is another poshifying element well-matched to the dish – fresh tasting with the springiness of lovely cheap white. On a ‘keeping it real’ tip, both sets of chips (sweet and regular potato) were crisp and well-seasoned. For me, the lemon in the tartare was lovely and invigorating – if you’re inclined to disagree, there’s Heinz on the table for balance. All this and a free lollipop! (Hey, you’re never too old for those.) Overall – in terms of fish finger sandwiches, this is more catch of the decade than catch of the day.

The “Po$h” fish finger sandwich.

Still, I’d come here for my pound of cod-flesh, right? So I was keen to make proprietor Rick Panesar wriggle on the line just a bit when we chatted post-meal. However, his exuberant charm, not to mention fair pricing and commitment to ethical endeavour (alongside 2 Fingers he has a hand in local non-hierarchical media org Sound Advice UK) again thwarted my hatchet job.

And then he was off, racing to get his phone so he could show me his pride and joy, a retro Ford Transit van, with an Only Fools and Horses feel, that he motors into food festivals and events across the land.

If you need some Omega 3 to see off a tough week, then 2 Fingers remains at the Canvas for the next two weekends at least. If not, and you happen to see the 2 Fingers Ford pull up at a festival in the coming months, don’t have reservations about saying hi to Rick and sampling these clever twists on a family staple – there’s nothing fishy about 2 Fingers.

2 Fingers @ Canvas Cafe
Thursdays and Fridays, 10am – 6pm
42 Hanbury St, London E1 5JL