Muslim schoolgirls show that faith and fashion are not incompatible
Muslim schoolgirls dress a dummy at the Faith and Fashion workshop Photograph: Mark Tillie
This article titled “Muslim schoolgirls show that faith and fashion are not incompatible” was written by Sarfraz Manzoor, for The Guardian on Wednesday 21st July 2010 21.42 UTCIn a first floor classroom in the Hackney campus of the London School of Fashion a small group of young schoolgirls are wrapping clothes on to tailor’s dummies.
They are using conventional clothes in unconventional ways – turning ties into belts and baggy T-shirts into neckwear. The idea is to challenge traditional notions of normality in fashion.
The approach is a common one for aspiring designers but it feels especially appropriate for the 20 assembled schoolgirls, all of whom are British and Muslim and all of whom are in traditional Islamic dress.
The girls are taking part in an initiative called Faith and Fashion that is using the widespread fixation of Muslim women’s dress as a starting point for a discussion on how to create fashion that reflects a British Muslim sensibility. Sophia Tillie, the 28-year-old white, British woman who runs the scheme, converted to Islam while at university. She is now engaged in trying to examine how the concept of modesty – so essential to Islamic thinking – can be interpreted differently depending on the context of time and place.
“The Saudi tradition of wearing the niqab is very literalist,” she explains, “and it is part of a puritanical movement that is reductionist in its doctrine. But reading more widely I was struck by the flexibility of Islamic thinking and that was what this initiative seeks to encourage.”
The scheme is backed by the Three Faiths Forum, an interfaith organisation that works at grassroots to support harmony and confront prejudice between different religious communities.
For Tillie the media obsession with the burqa obscures the richly diverse ways that Muslims throughout the centuries have chosen to dress. “Banning the burqa will send it underground and oppress further the women who are still perceiving it as the only way to dress to be a fully observant Muslim. The reason I set up Faith and Fashion was to create a safe space where we could look at why some Muslim women have chosen to interpret some verses of the Koran to support the burqa and by opening up that space that allows opportunities for other choices and other interpretations.”
Among the girls who are busy wrapping a pale blue pair of trousers around the neck of the mannequin is 15-year-old Tasnem. “I’ve always been really interested in fashion,” she says. “I like stuff that is funky, if I was wearing a hijab I would like to wear a massive bow with it.”
The girls are all competition winners having beaten more than 100 other girls by producing portfolios which featured drawings of clothes they had designed which expressed their British and Muslim identities. The girls all attend Islamic schools in different parts of London and some of their portfolios included poetic explanations of their decision to wear the hijab. “Allah doesn’t look for our outer but our inner beauty,” reads one verse. “Men walking down the street, ‘Oh she’s a cutie’/Women wear the hijab for protection/Not for affection/We have education/And we want an occupation.”
For the young women involved there is no contradiction between being interested in fashion and being observant Muslims. Says Nadaya: “I was on the bus and someone asked me why I was wearing a hijab – it frustrates me because they don’t know anything about me and yet they are judging me.”
Another of the young women, Musafa, 15, was dressed in a full veil that obscured everything except her eyes. She was also wearing an electric green jacket. “I like to dress nicely and I like to express myself through clothing,” she says. “People think that I must be forced to wear this but I came to the decision on my own and because all my five sisters and my mother wear it.”
During the three days that they are at the London College of Fashion they will develop design and IT skills and well as being given advice by design experts. It is the sort of training that they would usually never have the chance to receive in their Islamic schools.
“The great thing about this course is that the girls are learning that dressing modestly does not have to be boring,” says Hassaanah, a teacher in an Islamic school in Tooting Bec.
“We do study aspects of identity at our school but the aspect of understanding other religions and their history of modesty has been new.”
By the end of the afternoon the three tailor’s dummies stood in their new outfits. “This was my chance to really be creative,” said Tasnem proudly. “It was so great to be able to meet other Muslim girls who were also into fashion.”
• This article was amended on 22 July 2010. The original subheading said more than 100 girls had won places on the Faith and Fashion course. There were 20 competition winners.
guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2010
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Firstly, it is not a Faith item. It is a tradition. You can be a muslim without wearing a sheet or cape.
Seconly the whole reason peopl DO use sheets to cover themselves up are due to strict views on modesty. Doesn’t exactly fit it with them trying to ‘bling it up’.
This has got to be my favorite quote “if I was wearing a hijab I would like to wear a massive bow with it”.
Other contenders for most ironic sentence.
‘And if i was wearing camoflage I would put big neon signs on it sayin “Here I am!”‘
‘If I was ordering a vegetarian meal I would cover it in bacon!’.
‘If I was in a cycle race, i’d use a car!”
Oh oh, sorry just found another.
“People think that I must be forced to wear this but I came to the decision on my own and because all my five sisters and my mother wear it.”
So it was a completely independent decision then. HA!
Look, my basic point is, if you *choose* (I use that term loosely) to cover your entire face and body in a sheet, you are trying to cover up…they should stop being hypocrites! Next thing they will be having masks with a photo of their own face on them to wear over the top of the veil. I think they are missing the point.
It does make me laugh when I see these young girls and women being all ‘Islamic’ in wearing the headscarf and then wearing really tight jeans and tops. Very confusing. I don’t care what they wear, but please make up your mind. Are you religiously liberal or conservative?
What a shame in this day and age Muslim woman have to cover up from head to toe. They are showcasing Muslim men’s insecurities. No matter what they wear inside the burqa they cannot take away the oppressiveness of woman by fundamentalists who have degraded woman’s position in society.
I do feel sorry for some brainwashed woman who thinks its their choice. Won’t they feel in their heart that when everybody is wearing nice summer outfits
(modest ones though), they have to hide behind traditions.
When islam asks women to dress modestly, it doesn’t mean mixing western fashion and sticking a skin tight hijab on your head! Stop mixing two things don’t go together, and confusing others! Modesty means wearing loose clothing, and the whole point is to go unoticed, not to attract attention.
Surely having strict views on modesty is to do with not being sexual. Young girls wear bows in their hair and that isn’t considered provocative so having a bow on your hijab wouldn’t be hypocritical.
A lot of young women ( and men),out of control in our city centres on a Friday night, are entirely immodest. Who is the greater threat to society?
While I do not see any pure theoretical reconciliation between western fashion and Islamic traditional dress I would argue that this is exactly the reason that this type of course is important. I don’t think that every situation can be reconciled with a straight forward argument anyway, especially when it comes to culture and identity. In the shifting landscape of cultures the confident and successful country will be the one that forges fresh, relevant ideas and creates a positive impact.
I myself come from a background of mixed nationality and mixed religion. Further as an art school graduate I hold a great deal of respect for what this kind of artistic enquiry is trying to achieve. In an economic situation where the creation of goods and services is more critical than ever, I look forward to seeing more like it and the fruits that this kind of action can bear.
Where is the equality when we go to a Muslim country? We must cover up to fit with them.
If the issue is one of security to prevent men pretending to be women, do they have a law preventing men from doing this under the direst of punishment? What is their law about that? How is it administered in this country? I believe that our laws have to pass the test of ‘can they be administered and can punitive measures put in place that will stop people doing things offensive to society at large?’ If not, that is bad law.
I wonder at the mentality of a people who take up a way of life counter to the country that they live in. Why deliberately choose to resist with what is very openly different costume which the locals find very obviously alien rather than complement the place they are choosing to live in? Do they like to push against the European norms or are they choosing this as a way to push us around and find out how much we will take before we defend our way of life?
The face is such an important element of connection, that whilst our nuns have an almost identical form of dress, and are celibate, they still show us the face of their humanity.
In these modern times that they are choosing to live in, what are the men of the Muslim faith of so concerned about that they support rules which restrict Musliim womenfolk from using this vital, relationship making gift from God, the human face?
Blend or suffer the consequences – that is the lesson from history (the Jews will tell you all about the penalties of difference). People need to blend both in terms of dress, attitudes/expression (any business studies course will tell you the same). Until you can pace a place you can’t lead in it – people have dealings with people that they know, like and trust – hard to do when one party is behind a piece of cloth. What if we all went round with masks on – how tight a community would we have then?
Lastly, and maybe a bit flippantly with a little grain of truth – many of our nightmares are populated by faceless, unidentifiable people, people who have the power of life and death, who make us feel defenceless and scared to death…..why dress like the stuff of our worst dreams?
With the emphasis on Burqa, uneducated people forget that the Muslim men too feel oppressed as they have to wear loose clothes that hide their assets between the navel and knees. Islam has rules for everybody.
Re: Sue’s comment
It may be your worst nightmare, it certainly is not mine. Mine is worrying about Britain becoming a naked society. Walking down the street having to let my kids come across half dressed women and fashion has come to the point where even little girl’s clothing has become ‘tarty’.
Then the country wonders why rape is on the rise.
Common decency suggests that men should hide their “assets between the navel and knees”… !!
Re Sam’s Comment (11):
So, a rape victim is “asking for it” if they are not covered up? You believe men cannot control themselves when they see female flesh and turn into rapists? Thank god it is not like that, or I would hate to see the scene at the local swimming pool.
Actually, reported sexual assults have decreased in recent years: see the home office statistics
http://rds.homeoffice.gov.uk/rds/pdfs09/hosb1109chap3.pdf
Maybe because victims fear they will be blamed, by people with an attitude like yours.
Dan B. The thing about a mask with a picture of your face over a veil that hides your face? Not a new idea. In fact Orthodox Jewish women in the US often adhere to the rule that married women must completely cover their hair in public by completely covering their hair with – a wig! And the wigs are usually chosen to look as much as possible like their hair. How mad is that? I mean that in a nice way; I just think all these things are fine, and not worth getting worked up about.
I do wonder why there has never been a similar backlash against motorcyclists. After all, they cover their faces in public too.
I think people shouldn’t be allowed to cover their faces completely, like for CCTV security in banks, but if people want to wear headscarves because they feel it’s what they want, why not? After all, in British society it’s considered terribly immodest to walk around naked; why should the fact that they have a different idea of modesty to everyone else be a bad thing? If Muslim women don’t mind me walking around in a miniskirt, why should I be offended if they don’t want to.
I don’t understand the ridicule made by some of you. I also don’t understand why objects of Muslim dress cannot be combined with wetsern fashion. Whether expressing faith, morals, creativity, emotion, likes or dislikes how we dress is an expression of our identity (part of it). So these yound British Muslim women want to express a dual aspect of their identity. What the hell is wrong with that? I guess there are some very narrow minded people out there who don’t realise that most Muslim families and people do not operate the same way the Taliban did in Afghanistan. Also Chritians and Catholics express their faith through fashion – Jewelery, rosary, certain colours worn for long periods after someone dies and veils in orthodox Christian practices. If you can’t have one group not wearing veils then you are going to have to outlaw similar articles of clothing in other religions. Also since when has there been a veiled man attack anyone with guns or a bomb in a Western country? Come on people a little perspective would be nice here.
Des. There is a similar rule for motorcyclists.
Every time I go into a bank, post office, hospital . . . any public building, I have to remove my helmet before I go in.
It can be very awkward at times trying to carry things and having to open doors and carry a helmet at the same time.
Not exactly equality is it?
Des asks why no similar backlash against motorcyclists wearing helmets. There are, in fact, signs on the doors of banks, garages and many other retail outlets saying ‘no helmets’. Will those same restrictions be demanded of muslim women wearing face covering garments? I always remove my helmet, or at least the visor when talking to someone. I was taught it was common decency. When I go abroad, I try to abide by the practices of the country I am visiting, not impose my own.
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For muslims modest dressing means that u cover yourself up except face, and dont attract attention of others specially men .but if ur wearing veil and wearing a bow tie that would definately attract attention, so would really bright coloured jackets. i dont understand this concept of modern british muslims women .either u follow the religion and dress appropriately or u dont.no ones forcing u.its giving nonmuslims wrong idea about islam.u can wear long skirts and loose top or not too tight jeans and look modern aswell as practical.whats the use of wearing a headscarf showing other unmentionable part of body that dosent agree with religion.i m muslim women .i dont wear hijaab or niqaab but i cover my body appropriately and i truly respect women who wear hijaab and dress up decently.i think that our behaviour and our clothing should convey right message of our faith, not confuse or scare others.
Re: Steve Davis. Motor Cycle Helmets are required by law to be worn and therefore required by law to be regulated. there are a range of health&safety and design issues relating to helmets.
The Niquab is a conservative interpretaion of modesty, a principle within Islam that all (especially ladies) are to appreciate. Whether one covers her head only or her face too or even head, face and body, it’s down to interpretation. Interpretation of religion, not law. Head scarfs are worn by Islam not by law.
I grew up in Hounslow in the 1970’s and there were many people whose families were originally from India and Pakistan living there then: Muslims, Hindus & Sikhs. But no veils ever – headscarves yes, but no full-face veils. The only place I ever saw a full-face veil then was on a very few Arab ladies in London. So either custom has changed since then, or the interpretation of Islam. Headscarves are fine, but personally I see the full-face veil is a deliberate provocation, a deliberate political statement which says “I am superior, I am apart, and I consider myself separate to this society”. Hardly a good basis for social cohesion or understanding, in fact downright insulting to our country.
Dan B
Let me guess! Your doctorate in culture and religion was obtained through the one sided view of the media. Ever tried opening a book?
Some of the comments posted are clear evidence of ignorance. Don’t base your opinions solely on what you are told via the various media channels.
Women and ethnic minorities gained equality in the Western hemisphere in the last 50 years.
Women and ethnic minorities gained equality 1400 years ago when Islam was redefined for everyone.
Want the evidence? The religious text is readily available. Looking at muslims of today is not proof. They pick and choose what suits them and discard what doesn’t. There are no islamic countries so save your arguments that islam is backward.
Dan B: get your facts right the so called sheets you refer to are garments – and your so called humour amazes me – I never knew red necks and hill billies ever travelled further away from America but guess one of them travelled in a box of across the Atlantic.
According to my Koran, Muslim women should: “guard their private parts and not display their beauty except what is apparent of it, and to extend their scarf to cover their bosom”.
Why should this prevent them expressing their personality and mood by being original in their dress?
@Tabula in reply to “Women and ethnic minorities gained equility 1400 years ago when Islam was redefined for everyone. ”
Oh come now, equality? Have you ever read the Koran?
Anyway,I am not going to debate the evils of religion here. That wasn’t the point.
And @ZHussain, a garment is anything that is worn.
So a sheet can both be a sheet and a garment if worn…which in this case it is.
“Sophia Tillie, the 28-year-old white, British woman who runs the scheme, converted to Islam while at university.”
Somehow it’s not surprising that this scheme is run by a white British convert who has no real understanding of the complex issues around wearing the hijab/niqab/burqa.
In reality it’s about much more than theology; it’s about culture, family and history too. Like ‘honour’ killings, these are predominantly problems of the Pakistani/Bangladeshi communities.
A white British woman who thinks that by converting she somehow has some kind of special insight really hasn’t understood the wider issues. Still, I guess it means she gets to consider herself an ‘oppressed minority’, so that must be wonderful for her.
@Kate , Yeah, kind of says it all really.
“I don’t understand the ridicule made by some of you. I also don’t understand why objects of Muslim dress cannot be combined with western fashion. Whether expressing faith, morals, creativity, emotion, likes or dislikes how we dress is an expression of our identity (part of it)”
If you don’t understand, perhaps it’s best if you don’t comment.
The whole idea behind the Arabic full-face veil is intended to be to hide the woman from the prying eyes of men who cannot be trusted to look at a beautiful woman without molesting her.
It is not part of Islam. And trying to combine this symbol of misogynism and oppression with fashion is just absolutely ludicrous.
At the end of the day, people choose to come and live in the UK. If they then choose to do their utmost to stand out and be different for the sake of it and to give out this “holier than thou” attitude, I would suggest they leave and go somewhere else.
why the assumption the burka is oppressive? As a 22 year old western woman sometimes i wish i wore one to get away from blatant objectification of my body by men in the street
lol !!! men like to look at women its natural … most of the time women enjoy the attention … this feminist nonsense is precisely why this country is in such a mess …