Affordable autumn fare

Potatoes and cabbage from Stoke Newington Farmers’ Market

2008 is the International Year of the Potato. Yes, as global rice stocks reached a 25-year low this year, leading to price rises and export bans from some countries, and the shortage of durum wheat has pushed up the cost of pasta, the UN has seen fit to award this accolade to the lowly spud as the star staple of the moment.

The British have enjoyed a long love affair with the potato, ever since it was introduced from South America in the 16th century, and with a fragile economy what more encouragement could we need to sit down to a meal based around this home-grown, budget-friendly vegetable?

How about using it in a dish that builds on its value-for-money credentials by adding the virtue of recycling? According to a recent government report, we throw away roughly a third of the food we buy in this country, and 40% of this is fresh fruit and vegetables. Wasting so much food costs the average UK family £420 a year.

Bubble and Squeak is an old favourite that finds itself fashionably thrifty.  A peculiarly British dish, it was originally made with leftovers from the traditional Sunday roast.

One of the earliest references to the meal comes from Francis Grose’s ‘Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue’ in 1785, which describes it as ‘Bubble and squeak, beef and cabbage fried together. It is so called from its bubbling up and squeaking whilst over the fire.’

By the mid-20th century, meat was no longer added to the pan, possibly phased out by rationing during the Second World War.
Today the main ingredients are potato and cabbage, but carrots, peas, Brussels sprouts, and other vegetables make tasty additions, and meat often stages a comeback in the form of salty, savoury bacon.

Despite trailing wheat, rice and maize as the world’s fourth most important food crop, the potato is more nutritious than all three.

It is the best vegetable source of iron – which is needed to oxygenate the blood and is often lacking in women’s diets – and is high in potassium, which helps to lower blood pressure.

Vitamin C, which does everything from maintaining bones, teeth and skin to boosting the immune system is found in large amounts in both potatoes and cabbage, and both also contain vitamin B6, which the body needs to process fats, proteins and carbohydrates.

Add to the list the heart-friendly omega 3 fatty acids the cabbage is packing, and a plate of this peasants’ fare looks fit for a king.

Bubble and Squeak
Serves 4

1lb (450g) potatoes, boiled, mashed or roasted
8oz (225g) cabbage, boiled
A little butter or oil
Salt and pepper to taste

The quantities can be adjusted to suit your personal taste – some people like half as much cabbage as potatoes, some like half and half.

Mash or rough chop the potatoes.

Chop up the cabbage into bite-sized pieces, and mix both of these together, adding a little salt and pepper to taste.

Add a little butter or oil to a large
frying pan and warm over a medium heat.

When the oil/butter is heated, add the potatoes and cabbage, form into a patty and press down to fry.

When the bottom of the patty turns golden brown, turn it over and fry the other side.

Try serving with cold meats (more leftovers) and pickles as an evening meal or as part of an indulgent breakfast.

And of course, feel free to throw in other vegetables or whatever you like, really – experiment!