100 Hoxton – review

Flavours to savour: 100 Hoxton

Turkeyed out? You’re in good company. If you’re craving some fresh flavour combinations after four weeks of puff pastry-based meals and the usual seasonal gluttonies, I’ve found just the spot for you.

100 Hoxton’s menu sits somewhere between the influences of Thai-trained Aussie chef Tim Yates and Mediterranean-trained Philippine chef Francis Puyat, who’s come from Yotam Ottolenghi’s NOPI restaurant.

Needless to say, you’re in safe hands. They’ve come up with a roster of zingy small plates and sharing dishes fresh from the ocean, the land and the garden that sing with smart combinations of textures and flavours.

The quality of the meat, fish and vegetables is impressive, but it’s the creative play of seeds, spices, herbs, nuts and garnishes in each dish that really make them shine.

We had a plateful of the cauliflower pakora – fat crispy little parcels with rich creamy filling topped with lime and coriander yoghurt that were excellent.

Then there was some really good duck – beautiful pink meat cut through with a garnish of mushroom, courgette kimchee and cashew beer butter. The cashew is a real masterstroke, adding an earthy, nutty depth that complements the slightly acidic kimchee, and the flavours play beautifully across the palate.

Another highlight is the kitchen’s take on egg-fried rice – a great, soul-affirming bowl of goodness that could probably heal the most heinous hangover. It’s just a bowlful of fried rice, Chinese sausage and egg, but chilli gives it a kick and a lightness and the meat gives it some real body.

There’s plenty of good stuff we didn’t have room for – from burnt aubergine salad with coconut, tomatoes, beetroot and hazelnuts to seven-spice crispy quail and braised octopus with celeriac puree and pumpkin seeds.

The drinks are, as the menu claims, delicious. I had the Jamaican Me Oriental – a tall glass stuffed full of rum, pomegranate juice, lime and chilli with a handful of coriander and some smashed ice. It was bright and light and fiery and hit an empty stomach with a pleasantly warm buzz. It was so good I had two.

This place is worth a visit for a warm burst of exotic flavours, great atmosphere and good cocktails as the winter really sets in.

100 Hoxton, 100-102 Hoxton Street, N1 6SG
020 7729 1444